Sgorr Dhearg, (Beinn a' Bheithir)

The north side of Glen Coe is enclosed by the Aonach Eagach, one of the narrowest and rockiest ridges on the Scottish mainland. The two highest points on the ridge are Sgorr nam Fiannaidh at its west end and Meall Dearg near the middle. The traverse of the Aonach Eagach is the best but certainly not the easiest way to climb these two peaks; it is a superb expedition giving some very good scrambling.

Traverse is usually done from east to west. Start from the road in Glen Coe a short distance west of Allt-na-reigh and climb very directly north then north-west to Am Bodach. From there the traverse westwards starts easily, but soon there is an awkward exposed descent, then easy going to Meall Dearg.

Continue along the very narrow crest with much scrambling up and down. The most spectacular part of the traverse is the crossing of two small pinnacles. The difficulties end at the col below Stob Coire Leith. Climb quite steeply to this Top and continue along the broad ridge to Sgorr nam Fiannaidh. The most direct descent is due south down a steep slope, but be careful, particularly in winter.

For those in search of easier routes to the two Munros, there are alternative ways. Meall Dearg can be climbed by its north ridge, starting from the road on the south side of Loch Leven, and Sgorr nam Fiannaidh can be reached from the west, starting from a point on the Clachaig road 1 kilometre from Glencoe village.

(Copyright The Scottish Mountaineering Club)